Facts of Life #24

In our effort to get our Tokyo Trip posts out we totally forgot about our weekly ‘Facts of Life’. We’re two weeks overdue so you’ll actually see three sets of “Facts” in the next two days.

Week #24

1. We signed up for JAF, the Japanese Auto Federation, like AAA in America, over a month ago and got our card in the mail. Thinking I was informing JAF that we had received our membership card, I called and accidently called the emergency number. After some confusion and misunderstanding, I was able to communicate that both the car and I were just fine. However, I never was able to tell JAF I got the membership card.

2. The gym is our best friend during the cold winter. Our city provides a free albeit small gym. We usually go two or three times a week and ride stationary bikes, do the stair step and work out on the machines.

3. We feel strange sleeping in on Saturdays after traveling so much the past month. Now Saturdays feel extremely relaxing and lazy.

4. The lack of new American TV episodes is a huge thorn in our side. We really wish the Olympics would start so we could get back to a normal TV schedule.

5. Those even a little familiar with Japanese culture know that everyone takes their shoes off before entering a house and many times building. At the community center, the gym is inside, everyone takes off their shoes. Sometimes there are over 300 pairs of shoes, but no one ever steals the shoes. (We doubt that would be the case in America).

6. One thing we’ve noticed since moving here is a complete lack of public trash cans. It is almost impossible to find one!

7. Smoking is popular here. A friend of ours is a doctor and he smokes because he says it helps him relax…he’s too busy at the hospital.

 

グーリ！Glee Comes to Japan!

The unoriginal, yet surprisingly fresh TV show Glee is coming to Japan starting February 7th and the adverts are hilarious! The Japanese version will be the same American show put to Japanese subtitles.

Enjoy the ad below!

 

Tokyo Trip Day 3

Tokyo Trip Day 3

Our final day of sight seeing was much more relaxing and we enjoyed spending time with our friend Fumi. Alyssa and Fumi used to be roommates in NYC, and she graciously set us up with a place to stay and took us out to a great burger shop. We stayed closer to Mitaka the last day and traveled back to Gifu in the late afternoon.

After two solid days of walking, 12 hours minimum each day, we were exhausted. We woke up on our last day and shopped around Mitaka. There are quite a few department stores and even a few little boutiques that are as pretty as they are costly. Just South of the Mitaka station is a big street and shopping area. On Saturdays (our last day there) the street is shut down to car traffic and opened up for pedestrians and bikers. They played traditional Japanese music over the speakers as well. It made this part of Tokyo feel a bit smaller and more welcoming.

After walking around a bit we met Fumi who took us to a wonderful burger shop at the next train stop Kichijoji. The American shop felt like little America. It was complete with American kid’s books, campaign signs, street signs and license plates. And of course…REAL American Burgers! Normally our burgers are either McDonald’s or the Japanese version of an American burger. Japanese burgers usually have huge buns, egg, strange sauces, lots of lettuce and a little round patty of meat. The shop, The Village Vanguard Diner, makes theirs just like an authentic American burger shop. It was a fantastic last meal in Tokyo.

Afterward we walked back to Mitaka through a beautiful park. It was relaxing and fun to watch the parents with their kids. Japanese kids are some of the cutest in the world! Parks in Japan are relatively simple and are more beautiful for it. After the parkwe picked up our bags, walked to the station with Fumi and said our goodbyes. Then we took the train to Tokyo station, the the bus back to Nagoya, then a train to Gifu and finally drove from Gifu station to home.

We snapped this photo of Tokyo Tower on the bus ride home.

 

Tokyo Trip Day 2

Tokyo Trip Day 2

We woke up a bit later on Day 2 of our sightseeing trip to Tokyo. Our legs had mostly recovered, but we could tell our feet wouldn’t be happy with another long day. The first day started in Shinjuku, and the second began just a few minutes East at Tokyo station–another central hub.

Tokyo Station

We took the Chuo line from Mitaka to Tokyo station right at rush hour. We experienced the infamous train smashing and daily Genius breaking records of how many people can fit in a train car. We were literally lifted off of the ground by the flow of people trying to get in the train. Despite being one of the largest stations in Tokyo (one of the three for the Shinkansen), the station feels smaller than it really is. Getting out of the station is a breeze and the Imperial Palace complex is just a few minutes walk away. Unfortunately, the station’s facade is under repair/renovation until late 2010. The buildings surrounding the station are big and clean and the streets big and uncrowded. The shops in Tokyo station actually extend under the streets to the East. There you can find Starbucks, McDonalds, Omiyage (Gift) Shops, clothing stores and more. All trains lead to Tokyo Station and it’s hard to miss on the maps. It’s just an inch East of the green spot which is the Imperial Palace.

Imperial Palace

At the height of Japan’s real estate bubble the Imperial Palace grounds and buildings were estimated to be worth more than all of the real estate in California combined. Prices have fallen sharply since then (and Japan would never sell such an important national treasure), but its beauty remains. The Emperor and royal family still live within. Twice a year the family can be seen by the public when they open the doors once on the 23rd (we arrived on the day and missed it) and also on New Year’s Day. We have little to report on the inside of the palace since we were only able to view from outside. Although it is surrounded the world’s largest city the palace still manages to feel big enormous and, most importantly, imperial. Those familiar with Japanese castles will rejoice. For the most part Japanese castles can be underwhelming, but the palace is so big and the grounds so well kept it stands out against all the others. It’s a great spot for pictures.

Nijubashi Bridge

Tokyo Tower/Roppongi

From the Palace we walked South towards Tokyo Tower. It’s about a 30 minute walk that includes a park, restaurants, shops and some beautiful buildings including skyscrapers and temples. Tokyo Tower itself is an odd landmark. It is a mostly an Eiffel Tower made for the modern era painted in red and white, but without the romance and feel of Paris. Regardless of one’s feelings it is a must see because it is the most well known of Tokyo’s buildings.

Russian Embassy

After Tokyo Tower we walked around the area called Roppongi. There is an international air in Roppongi and restaurants of every flag and flavor fill the streets. The reason for this in part is because a number of embassies fill the area. The other reason is the U.S. and Allied forces occupied it after WWII. (We walked right past the Russian embassy and snapped this photo). We ate lunch in the newly built (2003) Izumi Garden Tower at a wonderful Indian restaurant. The Nan (bread) was impossible to get enough of and the curry was perfect.

Tokyo Tower

Ueno/Taito Ward

We took the Tokyo Metro from Izumi Garden Tower to Ueno. We arrived just outside of the park. It’s beautiful even in winter, but we imagine it’s better during the summer when there is more green. It was fun to see the many different kinds of ducks. The park is a nice escape from the rest of Tokyo. Ueno also has a zoo, but we can’t write much about it (we didn’t go). We spent most of our time walking in and around Tokyo Nat’l University of Fine Arts & Music. A number of national museums surround the area too. Like the zoo, we didn’t go. We wanted to but they were closed the entire time we were there.

 

Tokyo Trip Day 1

Tokyo Trip Day 1 of 3

For Christmas we traveled to Tokyo for a whirlwind 4 day trip (the first day was travel so 3 days of sightseeing). As many of you know NYC is close to our heart and we dream of going back there someday. We expected Tokyo to be big and exciting, but thought it would ultimately leave us wanting for NYC…we were wrong.

As we made our travel plans we began to see Tokyo as a living breathing Pollack painting in three dimensions. The subway map looks like Pollack’s No. 5 only with more colors. Further the 23 wards that compose Tokyo seemed tiny, disconnected and unimportant. On top of this the sights and attractions seemed to be so far apart that any coherent system of seeing all of them would be impossible. At the end of our four days we realized why the world’s largest city is so big and why so many call it home.

Tokyo is a far cry from the rectangular blocks of Manhattan and the C shaped subway lines, but it works in its own way: perfection. To quote Monocle, a magazine dedicated to cities, culture, design and global affairs, “On paper, Tokyo shouldn’t work at all–nearly 13 million people living cheek by jowl, most commuting in the same direction in and out of the city every day. And yet it does, consistently outperforming other cities in the world on everything from the quality of its restaurants to the efficiency of its public transport”. Overall, Monocle rates it as the third most livable city in the world [behind Zurich and Copenhagen for those who must know] (Issue25.V:03 July/Aug09).

Part of what makes Tokyo so incredible is its transportation. Although the 23 wards look small on a map, they are vast in their offerings. Restaurants, businesses, services, shopping and anything you can imagine is only a few minutes away. The more we walked we more we realized why a world class transportation system is vital to the city. We found the trains to be perfectly on time (Japan is internationally known for this) and easy to access. In addition to a quality subway we were surprised to find that many of the trains ran above ground and were more convenient than the subway. The transportation system is so big that it needs two extensive maps to fit it all: one for the JR East trains (above ground) and another for the Tokyo Metro Subway system.

Tokyo Subway Map (Underground)

JR East (Above Ground Trains)

We stayed in Mitaka, a 30 minute train ride west of Tokyo station, and enjoyed being near a station and found enjoyable things even though we were far west of the city’s many hearts. We used the Suica card to get around in the transportation system. Those familiar with Hong Kong’s system will rejoice. The Suica card needs only to be waved in order to enter the stations. No swiping, pressing or spinning the card to figure out which way is up. (It’s pure paradise compared to NYC’s outdated Metrocard). It is a bit expensive to get around, but it is cheaper than any other method (save for walking).

Our love for cities isn’t necessarily because of buildings, food or shopping, although that is part of it, instead it is for the people and the incredible life that cities have. We tend to explore cities by foot and walk until our legs cramp and feet scream; Tokyo was no exception. Each morning we would wake up and be on the train by 8:30 and go to a new ward. Then we would walk until it was time to go back to Mitaka. Now it’s our turn to walk you through the different wards we visited.

Day 1

Shinjuku: One of the biggest wards it is known for shopping, houses the city government offices and is a crossroads for the city.

Shinjuku is a great first ward. The Tokyo Tocho (Metropolitan Gov’t Building) stands only a few minutes walk from Shinjuku’s station and serves as every tourist’s starting point. Here we found lots of maps and even better one page details on each ward. These pages included recommended sights, a detailed map and a few suggestions. We happened to arrive right before the first elevator to the observation deck left. The deck provides an incredible view of the city. It is as perfect as a view of NYC from Rockefeller or the Empire State Building, but it gives you some perspective. Depending on the pollution, Mt. Fuji can be seen to the NW. We were surprised to see so many small buildings and even houses spread throughout the busy thoroughfares and skyscrapers. Tokyo is an incredible example of mixed use zoning. *Note: Both the tourist maps/info pages and the observation deck are free. Also there is an info desk with English speakers; they are very helpful. Tokyo Tokyo also has an observation deck but you’ll pay a hefty $15 for the view.

View of Tokyo with Mt. Fuji Behind

After getting the relevant tourist info we walked back towards the station and walked through Denki-Gai an area full of electronic stores. If nothing else its worth visiting because it fulfills that classic Japanese stereotype that they are tech-savvy, -hungry and -obsessed. You might find some good deals too, but nothing too special.

We then headed to Shinjuku’s Southern Terrace a shopper’s paradise. We spent most of our time in GAP because of a big Christmas sale (50% off). There are lots of American, European and Japanese shops here. Hours can be spent in the different malls, building and stand alone shops. As one of the biggest hubs of the Tokyo machine, prices tend to be big too.

From here we walked to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. There is a small fee Y300 (or $3), but it is a nice escape from the chaos of shopping and Shinjuku station. There are some beautiful ponds, Japanese gardens and old trees. We most enjoyed sitting down on the big lawn and people watching. We were surprised to find so many business men sitting or laying down enjoying the sun. Young couples could be spotted around the lawn with beaming faces. But not nearly as many as our next stop in Odaiba.

Shinjuku Ratings:
Transportation/Access: Almost all lines start or go through Shinjuku. The station is nice, but borders on being too big.
Architecture: The main attraction is the Tokyo Meto Gov’t buildings.
Food: Easy to find, but expensive
Green: Two main parks one to the west and east of the station.
Shopping: Abundant and expensive.

Odaiba: A man made island with a touristy feel, but it has unparalleled view of the Tokyo skyline and Rainbow Bridge.

Odaiba is for lovers. We didn’t see someone without a significant other the entire night. If you’re single steer clear of this place! Odaiba is a man made island and literally means “fort” which was its original purpose in the 1850s. It has been expanded and developed for tourism since the 90s. We ate at a fabulous Hawaiian burger (read American burger) near the waterfront. It was expensive, but so worth it for us. We don’t get to eat real American burgers very often. The views at night are incredible. From Odaiba Tokyo Tower stands directly behind the Rainbow Bridge. Rainbow Bridge gets its name from the lights that color its white towers. We were also fortunate enough to see an incredible water display slide show for Christmas. It was fantastic. We got some great pictures of the different shots of nature and words. We walked around Odaiba some, but mainly enjoyed the waterfront and views. There is also a fun imitation of the Statue of Liberty that makes for fun pictures.